you have the reel basically filled with line, and that larger diameter of the spool makes the drag slip easier. If you were to do the same test with a half empty spool, it would take more resistance to slip the drag.
I never would have imagined that the amount of line on your spool could affect the amount of pressure on the drag. Six or Seven pounds of pressure seems to be a happy medium. This reassures my initial thought that most rods apply a similar amount pressure. So I guess my next question would be, If your pole can only apply lets say 12 pounds of pressure (Max) to the line, whats the point of using heavier line. Obviously abrasion resistance is crucial for fishing around cover and a heavy leader is needed to avoid break offs from the fishes rough patches/ fins. Most line is rated nearly half of its actual breaking strength, I know lines such as Berkley big game and Triline XT break at double its labeled strength. Why not just use lighter line with superior abrasion resistance? (I'm not sure if such a line exists, so I'm hypothetically asking?)
Every now and then I head out and do a little carp fishing. Its the closest thing to a sure bet you can fish for. If you know what your doing you can catch a dozen each trip. Usually we catch at least one over 5, but occasionally we break 30lbs. Not many other fish can come close. They get large and fight hard, any catman can respect that. The attached image is of a 32lb carp my friend caught last year.
I was messing around the other day with some lines and knots. I would tie a knot to a scale and see how hard i had to pull before the line or knot failed. After doing this for a while I realized that the amount of pressure needed to break the line was ridiculous. I then grabbed some of my poles and hooked them to a scale to see how much pressure they put on the scale until the drag slipped. I found that it took about nine pounds of pressure before the drag slips. (With drag almost all of the way tightened down) I could use my thumb to add more pressure. This was quite shocking, seeing how it takes three to four times that pressure for most of my line to break. I have had no problems landing fish, but I was curious to see if the reels you guys were using slipped at a similar tension? I have seen that some reels have a drag weight rating, is this what is meant by those ratings? If it helps I used 2 of my poles, the first was a catfish series ugly stick 8' with a abu 6500 spooled with 30lb silverthread, the other was an ugly stick tiger 7' with a abu 6500 spooled with 50lb suffix 823 superline.
Well where to begin? Landing a large fish requires a large net. I admit I have squeezed some cats into bass nets before, but it really rips the slime off of them. Also keeping your net wet helps in minimizing the removal of the fish's slime that protects it from harmful bacterial disease. I usually leave the net sitting in the water. When weighing a large fish its better for the fish if you weigh the fish in the net or in a sling. This keeps the pressure of the fishes weight evenly distributed over the entirety of its body rather than its gills. When taking pictures its best to cradle the fish with both hands, one in the mouth and the other near its anal fin or belly. I have read that holding a large fish by its mouth can tear its gill arch. Holding a trophy flathead by its mouth tend to produce better pictures though, so I usually try to minimize the amount of time the fish is suspended by its mouth. One of the worst ways to hold a fish is by holding them underneath their gills.
[quote.Something like a stock tank with a windmill pump to renew the water. I've looked around for a spring that runs year round but haven't found anything close to me. [/quote]
A few years ago we developed a watering system for our cattle in which we used solar panel, 12 volt deep cycle marine battery, 12 volt submersible pump, a 2' drain tile, pvc pipe, and some plywood to make a semi-sustainable watering system. Essentially this is how we made it: dug a hole about 12' deep to get to ground water; put the drain tile in vertically; added gravel to the bottom of the hole to cut down on sediment; attached pvc to the submersible pump and then brought it out the side of the drain tile about 3' above ground; we then ran the wires from the submersible pump to the battery; built a housing unit that sits on top of the drain tile that holds the battery, installed the solar panel; added a pedestal pump switch and a toilet bowl float (which kicks the pump on when the water level falls). This system cost us about $400. Altogether its been 3 years and we haven't had any problems. You could add a drain to your holding tank, which will allow the pump to kick on periodically, refreshing the water and keeping the water cool.
What floats do you guys use when fishing for cats? What are the advantages of specific types of floats over others? (Cigar v. Long Skinny type, etc.) Weighted or Unweighted?
I have gotten used to using Little Joe weighted Floats (10.5" Yellow and Black). I like using them because i know how much weight to add without it laying flat on the surface or sinking to the bottom. So there is no guessing game when I get out on the water. I also like this type of float because it allows me to tape a light stick to its tip easily.
Last year I tried using pretty large baits by ended up really irritated. When on floats, they caused unmanageable tangles. On bottom, they pulled the bait clicker non-stop and ended up in snags. How do you guys fish with large baits, lets say over a pound? What setups work best? I'm mostly interested in fishing lakes, but river rigs might be useful to know as well. I have tried cutting the fins off, adding 5 ounces of weight, etc. I really need help in this area.
Thanks for the input guys, I wish that I had gotten this much advice before I bought my first car. Anyway I just wanted to let you guys know that I went to bass pro to pick up a few things ($267 )and ended up getting an Ugly stick Tiger rod. Robby said that short rods aided in the hook set, so I'd figured why not. I also purchased 300 yards of 328 Suffix 50lb superline, it was the equivalent in diameter to 12 pound mono. I spooled the reel up last night and casted it a few times in the rain. Quick question: When I spooled the reel, while keeping tension with my finger I started to accumulate black grease looking stuff on the tip of my finger. Whats that for? and Did I make a mistake by removing the grease?
I like to match my reels to my rods, red with red, black with black. My girlfriend is always onto me about not matching. Joking, of course. Doesn't really matter much, as long as it works, it could be pink for all I care.
We have been blessed with a large stand of forest consisting of Oaks, Poplars, and Elms. If you know your trees you can narrow your search area significantly. There are several sites that will tell you what kind of trees to look for. Our best luck has been around Tulip Poplars and dead or dying elms. We usually check any dead or dying tree anyway, or one that's shedding bark.. They will be coming up in another month so get ready. Good luck.
We just recently bought a 15 foot tri hull from the early 80s. Me and a friend re-wired the whole boat, we figured it needed it anyway. (The wiring was in the Styrofoam in the sides as well.) One suggestion I have from personal experience is to watch what kind of lights you put into your boat. We had some lights from the old wiring system that we re-used, until we found out they ate batteries like crazy. We switched them out for more efficient lights. You might run into the same problems, so go with LED lights. They cost more than normal lights but don't drain your battery so you can stay out longer.
You will get more enjoyment out of an old boat with a new motor than you will from a new boat with an old motor.
I agree with Rob on this one. We just bought a 9.9 hp Mercury "bigfoot" motor for our boat. I think it was around 1200. More than the boat of course, but we wont be paddling anytime soon. I HOPE.
Don Wise worked in a lab and used tensiometers on knots to test strength. He had hours of lab tests and charts on strengths. He was quite proud of all the data he had on knots.
There are a lot of people whom test the breaking strength of knots. As mentioned in other parts of this forum, I read a lot and I have an ever-growing library of fishing books, articles, and magazines. In the book, "Complete book of Baits Rigs & Tackle", By Vic Dunaway, the author breaks down each knot and describes a little about its uses and its strengths. Here is what was said about the uni knot and the palomar knot:
Referring to a Uni Knot (snelling a hook and directly to the eye): " it also provides close to 100 percent knot strength for most of its applications. The few finished ties which do not test near 100 percent still test consistently at 90 percent or higher. Moreover, the strength of the Uni-Knot isn't diminished when the line is broken with a jerk, rather than with a steady pressure, unlike some other knots which test 100 percent on a steady pull but break at 50 or 60 percent if subjected to severe and sudden jolts..."
Referring to a Palomar knot: "is a quick, slip proof and dependable tie that usually will test at 100 percent on a testing machine, but when shocked - such as by a powerful strike at boat-side, it can break far below line test."
Just something to think about next time you go to tie a hook. Why risk it?
My 6500s have 25 0r 30 lb Big Game and I once landed a 52# flat on 20 lb Big Game line.
I have never lost a fish on big game 20lb test. Its darn near impossible to break that stuff when your knots are tied well and you keep your line in good shape. I have put my rigs into trees several times and had to cut my line. However the consensus on this forum and of many fisherman whom target flatheads is to use heavier line. I don't want to lose the fish of a lifetime when he comes swimming by.
I have used Ugly Sticks for years and love them. Cheap comparatively, rugged, yet replaceable. I love power pro 100lb test and haven't had problems with guides. Currently using Big Game 40 but plan to go back to the braid.
I have also used ugly sticks and have no problem with them at all. I am currently using the 8' catfish series rods. They are real light weight, I have no problem using them to drift floats for channel cats in the spring. I also use them to tight line in current with circle hooks, they are sensitive enough to see your sinker bounce across the bottom until it settles. To date they are the best all around rod on the market. If only they had stainless steel eyes, i would feel more comfortable using braid.